Downstream from the bridge, several mountain streams flow in from the high mountains to the north and south, widening the river. However, at the bridge’s location, the river narrows to less than 30 meters as large rocks seem to come together like foreheads touching, making it the narrowest part of the Nakatsugawa River. Bokushi wrote about Sarutobi Bridge, noting, “It is likely named due to the narrow width of the river,” and he included an illustration. He also wrote, “This bridge, which hadn’t fallen for years, collapsed in the autumn floods this year and was rebuilt each time it fell.“
Description of Sarutobi Bridge in “Akiyama Kikou” Travelogue:
The famous Sarutobi Bridge is located beside this village (Note: Sakamaki), and it is said to be a very terrifying bridge. I wished to experience that fear and decided to cross it. Visible among the trees near the house, the cooper went ahead. Half of the bridge, made of brushwood, was visible, but the other half was hidden by rocks. The path near the bridge was barely carved into the sheer cliffs, providing just enough foothold.
Not knowing where to descend, I returned to the village house and, insisting, asked a man sorting soybeans at the entrance to guide me, offering him a drink as a fee. The man led the way, while I strapped my hat, cane, and dagger to my waist and back, navigating the first rocky corner. Looking up, the rock towers above, and looking down, the deep blue water of the abyss churns with whirlpools. As the name ‘Sakasama’ implies, the water swirls upside down.
The abyss is right below our feet. The guide clutches my belt with his left hand and the rock edge with his right, descending slowly. Eventually, as we near the bridge, a large single rock stands like a screen from the water’s edge to the sky. Realizing I could neither advance nor retreat, I noticed a large vine entwined nearby. Remembering the iron chains of Hakkai Mountain, the sacred mountain of Echigo, I thought of the poem by Matsuo Basho, sighing over the vines entangling life (‘Sarai no kizara,’ Sarashina Travelogue). With great effort, I reached the edge of the bridge.
There, a large rock, enough for three or four people to sit comfortably, juts into the Nakatsugawa River. Here, the river narrows, making the current fierce and turbulent, with immeasurable depth. Two long logs are laid across this narrow section, with brushwood interwoven horizontally. The bridge sags in the middle, adding to the unease. The guide offered his hand, saying we should cross. As usual, I crawled halfway across the bridge. The bridge trembled incessantly. Cold sweat streamed down my face, and with great effort, I reached the large rock on the opposite bank. I felt alive for the first time.
After a while, I let the cooper unload our cargo on the flat rock, resting with the guide. The scenery on both banks was indescribable by my pen. Wonderful trees, mysterious rocks, captivating views from upstream to downstream. The guide, upon leaving, swiftly crossed the brushwood bridge with light steps. I couldn’t help but be impressed and understood why the bridge was named Sarutobi (Monkey Jump).
Here, being the entrance to the autumn mountains, numerous mountain streams flow from the high mountains on both sides, widening the river. However, the river here seems bottomless, and the large rocks are so stable that they seem unshakeable even by lightning, narrowing the river like foreheads touching. The name likely comes from the sight of monkeys seemingly jumping across from one side to the other. Though monkeys couldn’t actually jump that far, the name fits the narrowest part of the river in Akisan. During the autumn floods this year, the guide told me that even this bridge, which hadn’t fallen for millennia, collapsed, and the water reached two or three meters above the bridge.
The path up from here was also steep. Finally reaching an easier path, I felt joyous, advancing quickly. Passing through the Shimokizuki village of Kawanishi, I couldn’t visit the Kawanishi Shimogitazuma village I had seen from the corner of my eye on the way, and finally arrived in the middle of Mitama village.
